Making a Custom Filigree Ring

The Making of a Custom Filigree Ring: 24k Gold, 18k Yellow and White Gold and Diamond

Crafting this exquisite custom filigree ring involves a meticulous process that blends 24k pure gold with 18k yellow and white gold elements. Each piece requires countless hours of skill and precision to create.

Step 1: Forming the 24k Gold Tube

I begin with a thin sheet of 24k pure gold, shaping it into a tube with an inside diameter that matches the desired ring size. The tube is intentionally made longer than the final width of the ring — a detail that becomes important in later stages. I choose 24k gold for its exceptional malleability and higher melting point, which proves beneficial during the soldering process and when securing the 18k gold side bands.

Step 2: Adding 18k Yellow Gold Ornaments

Next, I solder the 18k yellow gold ornaments, which have been carefully cast in two distinct styles. Spacing these ornaments can vary depending on the ring size. For larger sizes, slight gaps may appear between the ornaments, which does not affect the overall design. For smaller sizes, I occasionally have to trim the ends of the ornaments to ensure a snug fit.

Step 3: Securing the 18k White Gold Side Bands

Once the ornaments are in place, I fit the two 18k white gold side bands, which I prepare in advance. Using a polished steel ball, I carefully spread the ends of the 24k gold tube to secure the side bands firmly in place. Thanks to the softness of the pure gold, this step is smooth and precise. I then solder the outer edges to ensure a durable bond.

Step 4: Creating the Filigree Effect

With the structure secure, I drill through the 24k gold, removing sections to create the delicate filigree effect. This intricate process requires patience and precision to achieve the desired openwork pattern.

Step 5: Refining and Polishing

I then file down the excess gold at each end of the tube and begin the pre-polishing process.

Step 6: Setting Diamonds and Final Touches

The final steps involve setting the diamonds and giving the ring a high polish, followed by a thorough cleaning to ensure it shines brilliantly.